Hiking into a place such as the Grand Canyon, can be – no, is a big challenge for someone with a fear of heights.
When you add running into the mix, it is a VERY big challenge. I knew this coming in and the challenge is the reason I had been looking forward to this day for a long time.
The canyon is no stranger to deaths. Hikers have found themselves lost with too little food and water. People have wandered out onto unsecure rock in order to get “the photograph” and soon found themselves falling a very far distance. There have even been a few “Thelma and Louise” type suicides!
Mule trains are frequent on a few of the trails (like the one I was about to take) and need to be approached with all caution. You are instructed to get off the trail, stand still and quiet, and wait for them to pass. Apparently, there have been a few instances where hikers have not done this, the mules freaked out, and caused injury to the hikers and deaths to the mules.
The trail that I chose is the South Kaibab Trail on the South Rim. I picked it for a couple of reasons, one being that it is heavily used and I wanted to make sure I would be seeing others in case I found myself in trouble.
Despite my fears, I wanted to challenge myself. My ultimate destination was Phantom Ranch at the base of the canyon and on the Colorado River. It would be a roundtrip of 9 miles and an elevation drop of 4,500 feet – much greater than the 600 I did yesterday in Sedona. And so I began my descent into the unknown.
It is vital that you prepare yourself for an undertaking such as this. I downed a couple of Clif Bars, a bottle of water, a bottle of Gatorade, and some Power Gel. What I carried on me for the run was a bottle of water and another Gel pack. After thoughts, I could have used another bottle of water and a Clif Bar.
The trail is rugged. Concentration and careful foot placement is extremely important. If you biff going down into this canyon, you are in trouble. Even a twisted ankle could mean issues that you don’t want to face. I definitely recommend trail shoes – and a hat.
Getting started early is important, as well. Temperatures can differ from the top of the rim to the base by 20 degrees, which means a base temp of around 110 during the summer and by mid-morning.
The temps were cool when I started – about 65. The first mile and a half cruised along great and I came across a park ranger who asked how far I was going and I responded, “Another 40 minutes or so.” She smiled and asked where I was from and that was that. I should have gotten her name! Oh well.
About a mile later, I came across two mule trains. I did what I was told. I moved off the trail, waited, and got going again at a careful pace. Then I came across another mule train. And then another! I was starting to get a little irritated but was polite. I wondered how many I would come across, luckily they were all – but I would see them again, unfortunately.
A little farther, I came across a wooden cross in the ground that looked like a burial spot. It was just a trail marker. But then I came across a viewpoint called Skeleton Point. I thought, “Couldn’t they name it something a little more cheery, like Have A Great Day Point?” I kept going.
I finally came to an overlook that had an awesome view of the Colorado River, Phantom Ranch, and rafters that were ready to embark. I could hear the roar of the river and, it seemed, could just reach outand grab my destination. It was about another mile of winding trail. But I looked at my watch and an hour had already passed by.
They say that it takes about twice as long to ascend then it does descend so I figured that I had better head back. So near yet so far!
Naturally, the trip back up was a challenge. The hikers that I had passed cheered me on. Many asked if I needed water. I took their offer and topped my bottle off. I was going at a good pace with only a few pauses to navigate rocks and big steps. Then I came across the mule trains.
Now, they tell you what to do when you come across them but not what to do when you are going in the same direction and need to pass. So, I was stuck. I was forced to hike, slowly behind while they plodded along. Needless to say, I was, well, quite upset. At that moment I felt that I was better than mules. Of course, I wasn’t carrying heavy packs and a rider.
After 20 minutes, they stopped to rest. I didn’t want to stop! Come on! I asked the rider in the back if there is a chance to pass and he said, ”Sure, just as long as you don’t touch the mules.” Okay then.
I had a small 12 inch path along the canyon wall to pass. I was being careful and then one of the mules put his big rear right in my path. I was literally stuck between a rock and a mule's a__! Not a good spot to be.
I gave a raised hand, shrugged shoulder, quizzical look and asked softly, "What do I do?" The situation was extremely serious but at the same time I wanted to laugh hysterically!
The rider obliged and moved forward a bit, and I moved on, passing with my face 6 inches from a bad view - but I got by. I'm just thankful that they don't feed the mules here Beefareeno!
I passed more hikers (many with Bavarian accents) and received more kudos. One tall, blonde lass said, "You are a great man!" There's a first for everything, I guess. It's not likely that I will come across that statement ever again!
I came to the ranger who asked if I needed water. I didn’t but logic would have told me to stop, take some more water, and talk – I’m not great with logic. And I moved on.
It was starting to get a little warm, even nearing the rim. I could feel my head burning. I was feeling great, however.
I came across the last two mule trains with about a quarter mile to go. So, unfortunately, I didn’t come up top a runnin’ but felt good about what I had just done. If I had that other water bottle and Clif Bar, I would have worked my way to the bottom. Next time – next time.
The best experience of my life, so far. Views unmatched. People outstanding. I’ll see you again, Grand Canyon! And so it ends.
Next stop, Big Sur along the Pacific coast.
Peace
Road song of the day: “Good Times Role” by The Cars