(Journal/blog entry from Jill Watrous of Des Moines, Iowa with title by Bimal Paul!)
It was great to start the day with a brisk walk along with four others from our group. The local police happily posed for a group photograph and it was interesting to watch a man climbing steep steps in front of me while carrying multiple ducks balanced in a basket on his head.
Then there was another delicious breakfast back at Dhaka's Best Western La Vinci Hotel: a noodle and vegetable stir-fry; a papaya stir-fry mixture; a (Western style) omelette; creamy yogurt over chunks of mango and pineapple; and tea (or coffee) with milk and sugar.
After breakfast, we traveled north near the town of Savar where we were delighted with a series of arts and crafts experiences as well as many "bonus" surprises.
We embarked from the boat station at Nayarhat in two tarp-covered motor boats and traveled on the River Bongshi perhaps twenty minutes through gentle rain. We were surrounded by vibrant green plants on the banks and in the water, which was flooded outside of the normal river banks.
Our destination was Kakran, a traditional potters' village. Here we visited the first of two Hindu artisan workshops at which we observed talented artists making a range of items for local purchase and some also for export (the metal work).
At the village of Kakran, ceramic artists use local clay supplies to create hand-built artwork and to throw pots on kick-wheels. Clay slip is used to apply decorative designs. Firing takes place in an open-sided kiln dug into an earthen bank. We were happy to purchase bells and other small items that we will attempt to carry safely home.
In Kakran, we were generously included in various aspects of a wedding that had just occurred. A small band of male performers played music and danced exuberantly. We were given permission to take photographs of the traditionally-dressed bride and groom at the home of the groom, and were glad to give a traditional gift of "takas" (Bangladeshi currency) to the newly married couple.
Bimal later told us more about some traditional aspects of this and other Hindu weddings. The couple married under a canopy held up by bamboo posts decorated with banana leaves.
The third night after the wedding would be the couple's first night alone together, as on the first night, a young relative would spend the night with them - and on the second night, they would need to sleep apart.
The "second night apart" custom is based on the story of a groom being bitten by a snake when he did not sufficiently honor the goddess of the snake.
I found it hard to leave Kakran as the villagers kept providing warm hospitality and interesting activities, however the boat ride back was very refreshing.
A large group of white-uniformed school boys lined up along the shore to wave to us en route, and at the port market, our wonderful guide Moshiur helped me to purchase banana-leaf fans for our entire group (these were fun to pass out as gifts on the bus, especially as I'd almost purchased gift fans to bring from Des Moines before I realized that this would be like "taking coals to Newcastle"!)
After a lunch which included tasty fried eggplant and fried "bitter lemons", we visited some nearby handicraft market booths, then visited a second artisan workshop: Dhamria Metal Crafts, located 39 kilometers north of Dhaka.
We received a tour and saw extremely detailed work underway by artists using the ancient "lost wax" process to create molds then sculpture and bas relief objects. The showroom of brass and silver artwork was a treasure trove of Hindu images, bowls, jewelry, and other items.
Many of us have developed a fondness for images of Ganesh, so were delighted to buy Ganesh metal artworks then outside to find a booth selling more Hindu art, including posters of Ganesh along with decorative clay molds for candy and many other items.
Our guides finally were able to entice us away. They're very good about rounding us all up for departures... Khaled, a Dhaka University student who's now traveling with us as a guide, has even tried using the "Round 'em up, head 'em out!" line that I shared with him from "Bonanza".
We traveled back to Dhaka to pack up for our next long trip: heading south to Chittagong, then Cox's Bazaar.
Our departure supper tonight at the hotel was a change: Italian! Delicious shrimp pizza followed by pasta with beef and vegetables - and my favorite Bangladesh dessert: mango! I've not tired of mango yet at all, and especially loved the frothy mango drink served earlier this week.
On the bus and over meals, we discuss our concerns about education and environmental issues here... however, we are overwhelmed also with the beauty of Bangladesh, the warmth of the people and their many talents, and the incredible experiences that we feel very fortunate to enjoy here each day.